Twelve days in The Netherlands

Twelve days in a country with more bikes than people may seem like too long. After all, the Netherlands is, relative to the rest of Europe, a tiny country. Amsterdam, the country’s political and cultural capital, steals the vast majority of its visitors. Yet, twelve days allowed me to see another side of Holland, one that is not just remembered for its coffee shops and red light district.

The Netherlands has a dynamic, complex, and often times controversial history. From the Roman rule to the rise of the Dutch East Indies Company, Holland has risen to become a progressive and successful country. However, this history and culture extend far beyond its capital city, Amsterdam. And, for that reason, there is much, much more to see.

These were the places that I loved seeing in Holland:

Utrecht

Utrecht is a university town that has many of the “good” parts of Amsterdam: Canals, Dutch culture, great restaurants, fun bars, good cheese…coffee shops. It lacks some notable museums and a Red Light district (if you actively seek that), but I found it to be Amsterdam but with Dutch people.

Amsterdam

Obviously, this city is a must-see. I even loved Amsterdam. The canals, houses, museums (especially Rijks Museum and Van Gogh), elaborate history and food are phenomenal. I skipped the Anne Frank house as the line was over three hours long; however, I opted for the Van Gogh museum, which was an amazing and informative substitute.

Amsterdam is a place for wanderers. The flower and bike-lined canals cater to walkers and seriously offer endless opportunities for pictures.

I even wandered to The Red Light District because I figured I had to at least see what it was about. Gotta say, it was a really weird place to go to as a solo female. I walked behind hoards of tourists (and a few bachelor parties) as I meandered through narrow alleyways that felt like dark rooms. Women—and even some men—ACTUALLY stand in front of windows (more like doors) with limited/no clothing to beckon the odd passer-by. Yet, contrary to most dark rooms, photos are strictly prohibited. According to one of my tour guides, if you even try to take a picture, the women (and guys) will leave their windows and throw small vials of urine on you.

I didn’t want to get covered in pee and wasn’t “shopping” so my Red Light District wandering was pretty limited. One or two alley walks was enough to get a feel for it. Regardless, I would absolutely recommend a brief stroll here as it was just so incredibly different....and weird.

My one complaint about Amsterdam: there were so many Americans, Spaniards, Brits, Brazilians, Portuguese, Australians, Irish, Swedes, and basically everyone else that it didn’t really seem truly Dutch. Also, this raised the prices of just about everything.

The Hague

Known for being the center of Parliament, The Hague is one of the most international cities in The Netherlands. It is one of the main cities for the UN, hosts most foreign embassies, and is the headquarters to a few hundred international organizations.

Yet, it balances this political prowess with being an incredibly beautiful beach town. You can see surfers biking to the beach with their 11-foot longboards, and catch a professional beach volleyball tournament. The sand feels like the Caribbean, but the water feels like The Arctic. However, when the air and water temperature rise in the summer months, Scheveningen, a major beach area of the Hague, becomes a flocking point for the Dutch (and Germans because Germans are just everywhere).

One of my favorite parts of The Hague was Madurodam, a miniature version of Holland. On day two of arriving in Holland, I had already walked around the entire country! To be fair, it was 1/25th the size and filled with Lego people. But, even though (or because?) I was surrounded by six-year-olds, I LOVED it.

Gouda

It never dawned on me that one of my favorite cheeses was 1) Dutch and 2) named for a town. So, I obviously had to go.

This town was so cool. There were cheese wheels hanging above the streets. I had seemingly endless samples of gouda cheese at most stores. People were throwing hunks of wrapped cheese at the cheese market in the main square. It is how I imagine Green Bay to be on a Sunday when the Packers are playing. Except, Gouda just skipped the football part and kept the mascot.

Even if you didn’t like gouda cheese, you would love this town. You can see the reflection of window shutters in the still water of the canals. You can smell stroopwafels within two blocks of the city center. You can pass bookcases, filled with free books, on side streets.

Maybe they put something in the cheese here, but people seriously just seem happier.

As for places I didn't need to go....there's only one:

Rotterdam

Sorry, Rotterdam. I understand it’s the biggest port in The Netherlands and one of the largest in the world. Yet as a tourist, I didn’t need to go there. It had a large financial district and city center, but it really just seemed like any other city. I’m sure it’s just lovely, but I could have skipped it without losing sleep.

The Netherlands is one of the most liveable places I have been outside of the U.S. or Canada. People actually bike everywhere. I biked alone from Houten to Utrecht (a 45-minute ride) at 11:30 pm, and not only felt safe, but passed dozens of other bikers. The food is tasty and cheesy. Especially in Gouda. The people are super friendly, smiley, and helpful. They even have frighteningly good English.

I walked away, rather biked away, thinking that The Netherlands is bigger than it seems—and twelve days will never quite be enough.